Light the Way
Carwash lighting can make or break a location
By Terry Burch
Successful self-serve carwash
owners know the value of good lighting. Bright lights expose more dirt on
vehicles, which equates to more soap and time on your meters. Good lighting also
presents an appealing image to potential customers driving by the location.
Think about it. Would you want to take your new car to an old, poorly lit wash?
Another important reason for a well-lit wash is customer safety. We've all
heard about lawsuits filed against operators after crimes occurred at their
washes. While an operator can't prevent criminal activity, he can control the
carwash atmosphere--which can attract or discourage suspect activity.
Now that we can see why you need to pay close attention to the lighting of
your wash, let's discuss the best way to achieve your goals. The first question
you have to ask yourself is, how far are you willing to go to reap the rewards
of quality lighting?
The basics
A very common, inexpensive approach to lighting a wash is the use of
fluorescent fixtures. Many carwash operators--especially in warmer Southern
climates--use slimline (single pin) 8-foot fluorescent fixtures. The
disadvantage of using slimline fluorescents outside is that the starting
temperature of the fixtures ballast is 50 degrees, and when outside temperatures
drop below 30 degrees, the tubes begin to flicker as if the lamp is going out.
This may occur even if the tubes are perfectly fine.
If fluorescent fixtures need to be used because of budget concerns, install
high-output fixtures, that are much brighter and put out enough power to light
the tube in 30-degree and below temperatures. In fact, the rated start up
temperature of a high-output ballast can go as low as 20 degrees below zero.
Furthermore, using daylight-colored (DX) lamps as opposed to cool,
white-colored (CW) lamps has the advantage, not only in visibility but also in
improved safety. The daylight lamp provides a cleaner, crisper white light that
is more appropriate for nighttime lighting.
So what's the best way to light your wash? Your local lighting expert can
probably answer many of your questions in two words--metal halide. Metal halide
is a bright, white, crisp, clean light that is quickly becoming the standard in
the carwash industry. Metal halide has a longer lamp and ballast life and higher
light output per watt (vs. fluorescent and quartz lights). Metal halide will
help carwashes run more efficiently and save operators money in the long run. As
with high-output fixtures, the starting temperature of the metal halide fixture
is 20 degrees below zero to withstand harsh outdoor conditions.
But metal halide lamps by themselves are not enough. Many metal halide
fixtures have acrylic, plastic lenses that often crack and discolor from the
heat of the fixture's lamp. This often causes a dull, yellow-looking lens that
results in decreased light disbursement. Having a strong, prismatic glass lens
that is heat-resistant will prevent both cracking and discoloration.
New trends
A new trend in lighting self-serve wash bays is ceiling-mounted, metal halide
fixtures versus wall-mounted (wallpacks). Ceiling-mounted fixtures maximize all
reflective surfaces and also help place the fixtures higher to keep them from
rapid chemical deterioration and water-spray damage. Also, newer, vertical burn
lamps will ensure that virtually all of the light is effectively routed into
your wash bays, instead of back into the fixture itself as many older,
horizontal burn fixtures do: One final point about metal halide fixtures,
operators should purchase a fixture in which the ballast is isolated from the
heat of the lamp. The ballasts in many older fixture models dry out because they
are directly exposed to very hot (often 400 watt) metal halide lamps. This will
result in shorter fixture life.
Changing lamps every two to three years is imperative, whether you feel they
need changing or not. These lamps lose about 50 percent of their lumen (light)
output after two years. Without proper maintenance, lighting will not function
properly. This is unattractive to your customers, causing them to find another
self-serve wash to quench their need for clean.
Protecting your lighting
Chemicals, erosion and
weather can significantly reduce the life of your lighting investment. One way
around this is the use of sealed fiberglass housings around fluorescent
fixtures. While many contractors will often install metal halide wall-mount (wallpack)
fixtures with good intentions, many of these wallpack fixtures are not
water-tight. They will allow water to get to the lamps and the ballast as well
as other electrical parts of the fixture. This will bring about long-term safety
concerns. These same wallpacks will corrode in 3 to 5 years due to continual
chemical and water damage from the wash. Always consult with a local lighting
expert to find fixture bodies that are both weather- and corrosion-proof.
It is important to protect your self-serve carwash investment from beginning
to end--from the initial construction to the lighting of your wash. Quality is
going to propagate a clientele based on word-of-mouth. People know quality and
will spot a wash that pays attention to the detail of lighting and cleanliness.
Terry Burch is the owner of World Lighting, Inc., a Houston-based
distributor for many national lighting manufacturers. He can be e-mailed at terry@worldlighting.org.
Ask Yourself: 7 Lighting Questions
The type of fixtures you choose for your carwash is important. It's not
enough to choose just any wall- or ceiling-mounted fixture. Asking the
following key questions can save a lot of heartache, headaches and money.
Does the lighting manufacturer guarantee that a specific fixture is
waterproof and can withstand the continual pounding of soap and
chemicals?
What is the starting temperature of the fixture's ballast?
What are the maintenance costs?
How soon will I have to replace the lamp and/or fixture?
Can the fixture lens eventually discolor or crack?
Where should I place the fixtures for maximum light-effectiveness?
Why should I use a 320-watt fixture in my wash rather than a
400-watt fixture?