The Art of Auto Paint Finishing

They call them swirls or swirl marks, but often they are scratches in the form of swirls. The key to trying to properly work on a paint surface lies in the old adage KISS (Keep It Simple Stupid). There is really no art or magic to paint finishing. It is simply a matter of having the proper knowledge, the ability to think and being able to use a rotary buffer.

To begin there are a few basic steps:

1. Identification of paint finish
2. Analysis of the problem
3. Use the correct tools
4. Use the correct pads
5. Select the proper chemicals
6. Use the correct process

Identification of paint finish

There are really only two paint finishes to be concerned about: single-stage and basecoat/clear-coat finishes. You can easily identify a single-stage paint by taking a towel with wax or polish on it and rubbing it on the surface of the paint. If color appears on the cloth, it is single-stage paint. On the other hand, if it is a clear coat, no color will appear on the cloth.

Analysis of the problem

Single- or two-stage paint finishes have similar problems: scratching, orange peel, spotting and etching.

Clear coats normally will not oxidize or discolor, but they will dull or yellow. They also can be scratched, water spot and be etched from acid rain.

After careful evaluation of the problem, you can then decide to what extent you can correct the problem and which tools, pads and chemicals to use. It is recommended to always use the least-aggressive method first. This is important for two reasons: first, it will save time, eliminating unnecessary steps; and second, it prevents possible damage and/or unnecessary wear on the paint.

Use the correct tools

A high-speed buffer can be either electric or pneumatic (air), whichever the user prefers. I like air over electric for several reasons. It is lighter and easier to handle, has variable speed and adjustable maximum RPM, and requires less maintenance. However, in order to function properly, an air tool must be powered by a large enough compressor. One air buffer requires 15 CFM to 20 CFM at 90 psi, which can only be delivered by a 5-HP compressor with an 80-gallon tank. If more than one tool is used, a larger compressor is required.

The purpose of the rotary buffer is to create friction. When used with a cutting pad and compound, the buffer will literally “cut away” oxidation, scratches or other imperfections in the paint. That is why care must be taken when using a rotary buffer, because paint can be “burned” off the vehicle. Keep in mind that this process will put swirls into the finish, and they must be removed with a high-speed buffer. Swirls are technically “micro” scratches in the finish that can be removed with a rotary buffer, foam polishing pad and a swirl remover.

A dual-action buffer, either electric or pneumatic (air), depends on whichever the user prefers. However, detailers are learning that this tool used with the proper pad and compound can provide the necessary correction without resultant swirls often experienced with a high-speed rotary buffer.

The same comments about air vs. electric apply to this tool also.

The dual-action buffer with an aggressive pad and compound can create sufficient friction to make the necessary corrections to the paint. The key is for the detailer to be able to diagnose the problem and know the dual-action tool will work and then to make the right call with regard to which pad and compound to use.

An orbital tool can be air or electric-operated, but the air is preferred because of size and maintenance. Many believe an orbital will remove swirls, however this is not true — they will only fill swirls.

Use the correct pads

While some detailers use a wool cutting pad to both cut and polish (finish) to save money, it is recommended that a wool pad be used only for cutting and only on severely oxidized single-stage paints. When used on a clear